Mezza!
Shove over Iskanders, with your surly, disagreeable staff and your “if you’re not so pissed you haven’t already shat yourself, you can’t come in” door policy. Last time I was in there it was about half past two in the morning and there was an English guy with his forehead split open, blood pissing down all over his face, who was insisting on having a kebab before his equally inebriated “mates” brought him to wherever it was they were going to bring him to. Not the hospital, obviously. Probably to Tripod or some other equally disheartening back-alley whore house. He got served, not an eyelid was batted.
I admit that I was drunk too, but in a reserved and charming kind of way.
Mezza on Parliament Street (right opposite The Turk’s Head) now officially have the best kebabs in Dublin. Official because I say they’re the best kebabs I’ve ever had, and I’m a man who likes his kebabs.
Look at the size of this Lamb Shawarma.

The picture doesn’t do it justice. That pile of exquisitely seasoned lamb is almost two and a half inches tall. That works out at easily over half a pound of slaughtered and slowly-cooked infant sheep.
I had to abandon the salad a third of the way through and just concentrate on the lamb. I still wasn’t able to finish it. Then I got the meat sweats.
A friend of mine posits that the reason Iskanders is always crammed with belligerent drunks is due to simple muscle memory. They’ve been there before and so they go there again. On auto-pilot. A bit like the zombies in Dawn Of The Dead, only not as fresh or bright-eyed or intelligent. Or as well-dressed. Also, zombies, as a rule, don’t tend to accuse you of skipping the queue before you’ve even had a chance to join it.
So, take my advice. Try Mezza. That’s Mezza, for kebabs.

January 31st, 2009 at 9:35 pm
Move over Giles Coren, there’s a new restaurant critic in town.
You’re right though. Except that the Chicken Shish is the one to have.
January 31st, 2009 at 9:47 pm
Chicken Shish is the Coors Lite of the kebab world. Generally tasteless and sold on the false premise that it’s somehow better for you than the scrumptious alternatives.
If it isn’t made of lamb brains and shin meat and hasn’t been on a spike in the window for the last three weeks then it’s hardly even a kebab at all.